Monsoon Melody

The rainy season is as good a time to visit Nepal Monsoon is a time of tragic mythology for Nepal. That is to say, there are many myths about it, and they have had a tragic impact on Nepal’s tourism. To dispel them will require a great deal of effort on the part of Nepalese tour operators, as well as an exceedingly open mind on the part of agents abroad. The truth behind the myth is that Nepal is in fact a fascinating and highly rewarding destination, even during the rainy monsoon season. Weather is not something you can ignore, and such powerful and awesome forces as are unleashed during the monsoon rains definitely make one pause when considering travel. This is a season of flooding in the lowlands and landslides in the hills. It is not uncommon for roads and bridges to be washed away by rising rivers. On the other hand, however, it is a peaceful time of the year. Rainfall can be calmingly quiet, cleansing Kathmandu’s air of dust and other pollutants. The nation’s flora thrives during the monsoon, as flowers bloom and leaves turn lush. Indeed, Nepal takes on the feeling of a greenhouse during this time of year – warm, humid, green and full of sweet smelling oxygen. pg_16 .jpg (44205 bytes)Understandably, few people want to travel thousands of kilometers just to visit a greenhouse. They do, however, come to walk in the world’s tallest mountain range. What few people know is that the same altitude which makes the Himalaya so special, also protects this region from the driving monsoon rains. Above 3,000 m, the monsoon loses its fierceness and transforms into a warm and exceedingly pleasant alpine summer climate. Indeed, during this time, temperatures are wonderfully mild. High altitude trekking during monsoon offers sights which are otherwise never seen, especially in the form of mountain flowers, as brilliantly colored blossoms open themselves up to the warm, sunny weather of summertime. This is a particularly peaceful time to trek in Nepal as well. There are precious few tourists to be found along the trails, so the routes which are so popular in the fall and spring seasons regain the feeling they must have had 30 years ago before trekking had caught on. Only the local hill people are still plying the trails, transporting summer crops to markets and visiting relatives. For the trekker who wants to see the real and untainted Nepal, monsoon is the time to find it. If everything is so wonderful during the monsoon, why is it that more people don’t visit Nepal at this time? The problem has primarily been one of logistics. While the regions at high elevation are enjoying the protection afforded them by geography, those 1,000 m lower are being hammered by rain. In those days when the only way to get from the middle hills to the highlands of the Himalaya was on foot, the unpleasantness of walking six days to rise above the clouds often outweighed the rewards of the mountains. However, today, there are half a dozen helicopter companies which operate regular charter as well as personalized services to trekking destinations at reasonably priced group rates. The stability and maneuverability of helicopters, as well as their ability to land on a variety of terrains, make them a much more reliable mode of monsoon transport. Transcending the mud and leeches of the middle hills and lowlands is for the first time incredibly hassle free. Before and after trekking, a cultural tour around the Kathmandu Valley is highly rewarding, even during the monsoon. While it generally rains everyday, it certainly doesn’t rain all day. Mornings are often clear, fresh and sunny, and it is the nights that see most of the rainfall. Once again, the general absence of tourists at this time renders the Valley’s many monuments and temples much more authentic than during peak seasons. For white water thrill-seekers, monsoon rafting offers very exciting, ultra-high water runs. Though many rivers are so high that they are unrunnable, there are some which become truly exciting only during the monsoon. The best monsoon months to visit Nepal are late July, August and September. Hotels and travel companies generally offer off-season discounts, making it even more attractive.